Applegate-Lassen Trail Nevada 2004  Page-2    

           By Michael Green.  Photos by Michael Green, Earl Minkler & Fred Cone.                  

After Antelope Summit we made our decent into a valley. Depending on the year and weather conditions this could of been an easy decent, or a rough one, ours was a piece of cake due to road conditions and our long wheel travel.  We would now cross a large graded road as we continued on our way, our next major viewing point would be Painted Canyon. Here you'll see what they saw, bright colors on the odd rock formations. On August 16th, 1849 Alonzo Delano said... "It was twenty miles or more to Rabbit Springs, the next water... We pursued our way in a northwest direction up the gorge to the ridge and then followed and ravine."

Our next stop would be the all important waterhole of Rabbit Hole Springs. The name means a lot, as it truly was a "rabbit hole" when then found by Jesse Applegate. Here they, and others, dug out the area to form a larger size watering hole for the emigrants they hoped to bring this way en route to Oregon. Sadly the area was only salvation for a few, as it was normally a sad sight to behold, what with the many dead animals and discarded belongings, and yes, even wagons. Sept 15, 1959, George Keller said; "We started this morning at 5:30 o'clock and traveled 19 miles across barren undulating desert, when we came to a place known as the Rabbit Wells, where four or five wells, some 8 to 10 feet deep have been excavated by the immigrants in advance for the purpose of obtaining water for themselves and their stock. These wells with one or two exceptions were filled with dead animals. Having seen water at the bottom and being so eager to obtain it, they rushed head first into them, where they perished and could not be extricated."  Can you imagine?

From Rabbit Hole you can see the Black Rock Desert, and its "Black Rock", their next watering hole. Like then, we too would navigate off that black rock, thus taking us straight in. As then as now, we too would have to deal with the soft desert surface and the Quinn River, which on this occasion, was bone dry! In other years it could be full, or just very muddy, and in these cases, be it wagon's or today's 4-wheel drives, we'd have to detour south then swing northwest to avoid the hazards (as we did in 1999). Today the railroad tracks are in the way, and we thus made a detour to get across them. Some have said this is the "cruelest segment of the journey."  Alonzo Delano would write on Aug 17, 1849;"As I walked on slowly and with effort, I encountered a great many animals, perished for want of food and water, on a desert plain. Some would be gasping for breath, others unable to stand, would issue low moans as I came up, in a most distressing manner, showing intense agony; and still others, unable to walk, seemed to brace themselves up on their legs to prevent falling, while here and there a poor ox, or horse, just able to drag himself along, would stagger towards me with a low sound as if begging for a drop of water, My sympathies were excited at their sufferings, yet, instead of affording them aid, I was subject to relief myself... our cattle traveled steadily without faltering, reaching the spring about nine o'clock in the morning, after covering nearly forty miles without food or water... We found this to be an oasis in the desert."  Today you'll find the same hot springs and the abandoned sheepherder's wagon. We stopped our convoy for a rest, and to view the area. Unlike them, we didn't bathe in the hot waters (some are very hot and you must stay clear! and make sure as to not let pets or children fall in, as it's will burn/kill them!), nor make tea.

We too had to push on, our next stop being Double Hot Springs, some five miles ahead. Again, take heed in the warning above regarding these hot springs. Having been here many times, I offered a quick tour, and we were off once again, now following the route past Mud Meadows, some 21 miles NW. Virgil Pringle wrote, on Sept 9, 1946; "Traveled 8 miles to another good camp with several hot springs, some of them very hot and one cold in 10 yards of a hot one. The country barren with the exception of places watered by the spring."   We chose to old Hardin City road of the 1860s (to avoid to soft sands and mud/water along the original route).  Near where Peter Lassen was killed in an Indian raid, we too made camped for the night on a black sandy bluff. The weather couldn't of been better, not a breath of wind and warm temps all night. Note: camping is no longer permitted here, so contact BLM in Winnemucca before heading out. 

Note: John C Fremont passed through this area in 1844, and his party nearly dies for lack of water as they headed south across the Black Rock Desert; at last finding water at what would become known as Pyramid Lake.

Virgil Pringle wrote on Sept 10, 1846; "Travel 20 miles of heavy pulling road and camp at a grassy flat with plenty of water but bad for drinking."

"Mud Meadows was an area where emigrants experienced problems with Indians. Horses and cattle were  stolen and butchered and at least one was killed. Emigrants, fearful of attack, traveled in groups as much as possible." Deland, Aug 19-20, 1849

On Day-2 we departed camp a bit later than we wanted, but did not leave a trace. Our next stop would be the one time US Army fort at Soldier Meadows. Originally Fort McGary was built (in 1865) to protect the travelers on the Susanville (CA) to Idaho Road (Mail & Stage route). The army is long gone, but the buildings remains today, and are used as a working ranch and Bed-n-Breakfast.

From here we'd head towards Fly Canyon, and here you'll find the marks still in the rocks from the emigrants winching their wagons to the bottom of the canyon (remember, the road we travel wasn't there), called "Wagon Slide" by some. Some wagons made the decent by locking or chaining wheels, then lowering them via chains or ropes... others were smashed to bits when the hit the canyon floor out of control. Nearby there is  "emigrant graffiti" dating from the 1850s in the walls of the canyon. Pushing onwards we'd pass by High Rock Lake, though it was dry this trip, we now entered High Rock Canyon.  Temps today were in the 90s, with heavy dust, baby-powder in some places. Normal for the desert though.  

In High Rock Canyon, which is just that, with towering rock walls on each side of you... is an awesome place. Some of those rocks you'll find graffiti dating from 1852. After reading and photographing this and that we head off yet again, this time for Little High Rock. On the way we climbed a rocky section, on top are the ruts left from hundreds of wagon wheels (don't drive over them). Further on is Little High Rock Canyon, which has been closed to all but foot traffic, so if you have the time, take a walk. A road detour is available, so don't worry. And, there is a BLM restroom up on the hill near the hunters cabin.

Reading from BLM material, Little High Rock was the site of the last Indian massacre in this nations history. "In 1911, four Basque shepherds were slain by a group of Bannock Indians camping in the area. Their mutilated bodies were found frozen in the streambed one month later and a posse was formed for a manhunt. After a chase, which covered hundreds of miles, the band and their leader, Shoshone Mike, were gunned down in Rabbit Creek Wash northeast of Golconda near Kelly Creek Ranch" (Hyde 1973; Mack 1968).

Now we're off to Massacre Ranch, just prior to the ranch you may see what looks to be a large rock pile, it's thought to be a grave, known as Massacre Grave... but who's entombed there? No one seems to know.  Leaving the ranch we again follow the trail and soon find ourselves in Vya, Nevada. Continuing west we again pick up the markers and make our way to California and end up on a rocky path that leads us in to Cedarville, CA., where we gas up and call and end to our journey.      

Interested in seeing Nevada with us? Drop us a note. We offer trips to this area, and we hold a valid BLM Permit for such. Click on the following link to leave...  www.offroadexperience.com or www.offroadexperience.com/wcb

http://www.webtrail.com/applegate/index.shtml

Visit this web site: www.humboldtmuseum.com

Are you planning a trip across the Applegate-Lassen Trail? Then contact the BLM in Winnemucca, NV for more information and permit requirements. 775-623-1515. Also try Susanville, CA office for trails on west & north-west of Highrock. 

WARNING:  Make sure you have an up-to-date maps showing the open & closed areas. Before you go out and explore, make sure you contact us for tips on what to bring, as this is still a very rough wilderness, and though it's modern times, vehicles can and will drop dead just as those critters before us (running out of gas, or coolant). The thought of walking 40-miles back to Gerlach can be a terrible thought, and not a viable thing for most people. Cel phones do not work here. Weather can change without warning, and turn hard packed desert to axle deep mud in minutes. Camping is limited now to certain locations. Look with your eyes and not your fingers... removing artifacts is now a no-no.  For more information & USGS Maps contact the BLM in Winnemucca (The DeLorme Nevada Atlas is a good map to buy).